Haspelen van de zijde (Winding of Silk) - Karel van Mallery

A detailed sixteenth-century engraving by Karel van Mallery depicting the industrial process of silk winding in a workshop setting.

This engraving, titled Haspelen van de zijde, depicts the labour-intensive process of silk production in the late sixteenth century. Karel van Mallery, a Flemish engraver, executed this work after a design by Jan van der Straet, also known as Stradanus. The composition provides a detailed view into a workshop where women are engaged in the various stages of reeling silk from cocoons.

In the foreground, figures operate mechanical reels, while others tend to a fire used to heat the water for softening the silk fibres. The scene is set within an architectural framework, with an open loggia looking out onto a town square, which adds a sense of depth to the interior workspace. The precision of the engraving allows for a clear observation of the tools and techniques employed by the workers, from the baskets of raw cocoons to the complex wooden frames used for winding the thread.

Van Mallery employs a disciplined approach to line work, using hatching and cross-hatching to define the textures of the clothing, the stone architecture, and the metallic surfaces of the equipment. The figures are rendered with the elongated proportions and fluid gestures characteristic of the Mannerist style prevalent in the Low Countries during this period. This print is part of a broader series documenting the Nova Reperta, or new discoveries, which celebrated the technological and industrial advancements of the era. By focusing on the domestic and industrial activities of women, the work offers a glimpse into the economic realities of the time, documenting the manual labour required to produce luxury textiles. The balanced composition and the clear narrative structure make this an informative piece of social and industrial history, captured through the technical mastery of the Flemish printmaking tradition.